At some point in reefkeeping, you’ll come across pests, algae, or fish diseases. When that happens, you have two choices: prevent them entirely or keep them under control once they show up. We often describe these options as “eradication” and “management.”

Both approaches can work. One requires strict discipline from the start. The other focuses on observation, consistency, and adaptability.

 

The Eradication Approach

Eradication is about keeping pests and diseases out of your aquarium entirely. This is the most controlled method, but it takes a significant amount of planning, attention to detail, and follow-through.

It usually includes:

  • Dipping and quarantining all corals before introduction
  • Treating all fish with medications like copper or chloroquine phosphate, regardless if they are showing symptoms
  • Setting up separate quarantine tanks for fish and coral away from your main display tank

Sourcing matters too. Starting with captive-bred fish and aquacultured corals greatly reduces risk. But even with the right gear and procedures, all it takes is one slip to introduce a pest.

Learn More: How To Setup A Quarantine Tank

Fish Quarantine Tank Setup
Basic Fish Quarantine System

Why Most Hobbyists Choose Management

In reality, few reefers have the time, space, or desire to maintain a full quarantine setup. That’s why management becomes the go-to for most tanks.

Management means accepting that pests or diseases might enter the system and focusing on keeping them under control. It's about minimizing impact, not eliminating all risk.

This often includes:

  • Dipping corals before adding them to the tank
  • Manually removing visible pests like algae or flatworms
  • Spot-treating problems like Aiptasia with targeted products
  • Using helpful livestock, such as peppermint shrimp or wrasses
  • Making sure water parameters stay stable to reduce stress

Treating for Aiptasia with F-Aiptasia
Using F-Aiptasia to Treat a Pest Aiptasia Anemone

Coral Pests: Dip and Observe

Corals frequently carry unwanted hitchhikers. That’s why dipping is essential, even if you’re not following a full eradication protocol.

A strong Potassium Salt-based dip is one of the more aggressive options, while iodine or essential oil-based dips work better for stressed or sensitive corals. Observation after dipping is just as important. Many pests are not killed by a single dip and may show up days later. It's also important to know that dips won't kill any eggs that may be hiding out on the coral skeleton, so even if you dip the coral, it's still crucial to closely inspect the coral before adding it to your aquarium or quarantine system.

If the coral is doing well, some reefers choose to redip it every few days during quarantine. If it shows signs of stress, it’s better to hold off and let it recover before treating again.

Fish Diseases and In-Tank Support

Removing a sick fish from the display can sometimes do more harm than good. In many cases, it is better to leave the fish where it is and reduce stress while supporting recovery through environmental controls.

Two pieces of equipment are especially helpful here:

  • UV sterilizers, which help sterilize free-floating parasites like ich and velvet
  • Micron filters, which trap particles and organisms before they attach to a host

These tools reduce parasite pressure and keep the water clearer at the same time. A one-micron sediment filter placed in a media reactor can make a noticeable difference in tanks where disease outbreaks have occurred.

It’s important to have these tools and treatments on hand before you need them. Waiting until symptoms show up might leave you without enough time to order the right medication, equipment, or additives. Many fish diseases progress quickly, and delays can make the difference between recovery and loss. Consider stocking a few key items like copper-based medications, general-purpose dips, or parasite control products so you’re prepared when issues arise.

Copper Power fish medication and Copper HR Hanna Checker
Copper Power Fish Medication | Copper HR Hanna Checker

Nutrition: A Common Overlooked Factor

Just like in humans, nutrition plays a major role in fish health. Fish that are eating a variety of nutrient-rich foods tend to be more resistant to infections.

Focus on variety. Feed frozen, flake, and pellet foods whenever possible. Add garlic to encourage picky eaters, and use supplements like Selcon to provide essential fatty acids and vitamins that may be missing from processed foods.

Don’t Forget to Feed the Corals

Corals also benefit from targeted nutrition. Products like amino acids, LPS pellets, and powdered coral foods can speed up recovery and promote better growth.

Feeding helps corals bounce back faster from dips, pest damage, or other stressors. It also supports overall coloration and tissue health, especially in LPS and soft corals that feed more readily than SPS species.

Stability Above All

Whether you aim for eradication or stick with management, long-term success depends on stability. When temperature, alkalinity, and other parameters fluctuate too quickly, corals and fish become vulnerable.

Keep things steady by:

  • Using a reliable heater and temperature controller
  • Testing parameters regularly to catch trends before they become problems
  • Matching aquascape design to your livestock’s behavior and needs

For example, shy fish need caves and overhangs to feel secure. Open-water swimmers prefer more open space. Getting this balance right helps reduce stress and keeps your tank more resilient to problems when they occur.

Testing Magnesium Levels with a Titration Kit
Testing Magnesium Levels with a Red Sea Test Kit

Choosing Your Path Forward

Eradication works best for those with the time, space, and discipline to follow every step. Management works for nearly everyone else. Both are valid. What matters most is consistency, observation, and a willingness to act early when something looks off.

Keep your coral dipped, your fish fed, and your tank stable. The rest tends to fall into place.