RO/DI Filter Videos
Today on BRStv, we have a brand new episode of our series, BRStv Investigates. In this series, we explore popular reefing theories, products, methods, and what the manuals are missing, with a focus on putting them to the test! Today on BRStv we put the very common mixed bed DI resins to the test to find out what happens to the undesirable contaminants after the entire cartridge has been depleted. In this episode we follow the path of ammonia and silica as resin becomes increasingly exhausted and determine whether it remains bonded to the resin or if it purges those unwanted chemicals into your product water. Stay tuned as next week we show our results for the certified ICP-MS tests for reef tank Kalkwasser options! Reef2Reef is blowing up about this and other BRStv Investigates topics! Checkout this week's at the link below! We release a new BRStv Investigates episode each Friday, so don't forget to hit that subscribe button to see what's coming up next! *Legal Stuff*
In this BRStv Spotlight we cover the BRS Pro Series DI Resin and how it can increase your resin efficiency, save you money, produce higher quality water and decrease how quickly you consume DI resin as a whole. Today Ryan will share with you just what the Pro Series Resin is, how it works and ways you can optimize it for your specific water source. Check out the site for all your DI resin needs! Stay tuned as we continue to provide you with Spotlights on your favorite reef gear and strive to go beyond the bullet points on the packaging and show you what this gear is all about! *Legal Stuff* The purpose and content of this video is to provide general information regarding the products and their applications as presented in the video. Aquatic sales solutions, inc. And its officers, directors, employees and agents disclaim all express or implied warranties, in any way, related to the products and their application as presented in this video, make no representation or warranty
Today on BRStv Spotlight, we dive a bit deeper into DI Resin for use with your RODI filtration unit. In this video we discuss what DI resin does, how to choose the right combo for your water supply, and ways to get the most out of your DI setup! Almost all reefers use DI resin as the final polish on our reef tank's RODI system to produce ultra pure, contaminate free water. Not only that but we also look to implement it in the most efficient and cost effective way possible, which often means optimizing the type(s) of resin used. Stay tuned as we continue to provide you with Spotlights on your favorite reef gear and strive to go beyond the bullet points on the packaging and show you what this gear is all about! *Legal Stuff* The purpose and content of this video is to provide general information regarding the products and their applications as presented in the video. Aquatic sales solutions, inc. And its officers, directors, employees and agents disclaim all express or implied
Today on BRStv, we have a brand new episode of our series, BRStv Investigates. In this series, we explore popular reefing theories, products, methods, and what the manuals are missing, with a focus on putting them to the test! In this week's episode, we take a look at deionization resin and how to make the resins work better and more efficient. There are a few different types of DI resin available these days from single bed anion to mixed bed cation resins and each of them have a different purpose. A majority of resins are color changing and will have a pH reactive dye on the resin to let you know when it is exhausted, but it is still best to use a TDS or EC meter to know exactly when contaminants are coming out of the resin. Now, the color changing indicator can be on either the cation (+) or the anion (-) resin and when the pH of the resin becomes lower than the threshold for that particular media the color will change to a light amber color as the pH of the resin becomes neutral.
Ryan's back at it, answering your questions from the BRStv Investigates episode on the accuracy of the TDS meters on our RODI units! We'll discuss settings on the COM-100, learn about the differences between regular and color changing DI resin, as well as find out if treating water after DI is a smart option! Welcome to the R2R FAQ where we answer your questions posted on the Reef2Reef.com forums from our BRStv and BRStv Investigates episodes! Each week we'll answer some of your questions from the larger discussion and share them with you in this FAQ format! So, be sure to head over to the R2R forums each week and join in with your comments and questions. Who knows, we just might feature your's next week!
If you have a RODI system, you will eventually have to change the DI resin since it will become depleted as water runs through it. Deionization Resin is simply a mixture of cation and anion resins that will attract and attach to other contaminants that may still be in your water after the RO membrane. Changing the DI resin is super easy, and in today’s video, we give a few quick tips on how we pack our refillable DI cartridges. The biggest key for a long lasting DI stage is to pack the cartridge as tight as possible. If the resin is not packed tightly, water can eventually channel through it not allowing it to contact the remaining active beads of resin.
Today on BRStv, we have another episode of BRS 52 FAQ where we answer all of your frequently asked reefing questions from our popular 52 Weeks of Reefing series. This week we are answering RMLLLLL's question from Week 34: “What do you guys think about testing for TDS in the RO water and changing the filters based on TDS only?" The quickest answer is that not all of the RO filter change intervals can be accurately determined solely by TDS. Filters like your sediment and carbon block pre-filters for example won't really affect TDS, and RO membranes have such an extended lifespan that continually monitoring them every time you make water is frankly a little overkill. The one exception to this rule however is DeIonization resin. Our DI resin is a mixed bed resin which means it contains cation and anion resins – each with their own distinct charge whether it be positive or negative. Contaminants that often show up as TDS are reduced as they bond to the surface of the resin. As the
Did you know 1 in 3 US reefers likely has chloramines in their water supply? A typical carbon block can fail in less than 1/100th its rated useful life when used to treat chloramines. We wanted to show the community exactly how effective (or ineffective) various carbon blocks truly are at treating chloramines, so we ran couple of tests so you can see for yourself. While we expected the BRS Universal carbon block to out-perform the standard blocks, we were pretty surprised to see how quickly the standard blocks were actually depleted on our chloramine-treated water. Hopefully this test will really put an end to the chloramines verses carbon block debate for good. To be honest this is something that pretty much every municipal water-related industry has understood for a long time but for some reason wasn't as well accepted in the aquarium industry. We encourage the community to test for themselves. Watch the video for our test results as well as tips on how to test for yourself.
There's an idea in the reefing community that standard carbon blocks are effective solutions for treating chloramines. Rather than debate this point, we've decided to set-up a test to see the break-though on a variety of standard carbon blocks as well as our BRS Universal carbon block to evaluate the most cost-effective solution. The gallon ratings on data sheets for carbon blocks are all based off vastly different sets of criteria. The three main things that effect how long a carbon block will last are flow rate, the on/off cycle and failure point. A common test scenario is aimed at household use with 1 gallon per minute with 10% on, 90% off with a 50% breakthrough - which doesn't really apply to how the average reefer uses a carbon block or RO/DI system. We have elected to do 2 sets of testing to confirm results in a variety of uses. Both will evaluate the ability to treat for chloramines and will utilize the BRS Universal carbon block (which is designed specifically to treat both
Knowing when to change your carbon blocks shouldn't be a mystery! Learn how to identify when your carbon blocks truly need to be changed in this episode of BRStv. Knowing how to test your carbon blocks performance is really important in ensuring the highest water quality output. Rather than relying on a visual or monthly change-out of carbon blocks, there's a simple test you can do to truly know when your blocks have been depleted. Here's how: For this test, you will need a LaMotte Total Chlorine test strip, which will read both chlorine and chloramines, Step 1: Run your system for 30 minutes. Step 2: Take a sample from the waste water line of your RO system. Step 3: Test the sample using a LaMotte Total Chlorine test strip. If your results come back as 0.5 or above, I would recommend changing your carbon blocks.© 2020 Bulk Reef Supply. All Rights Reserved.