- Deluxe Madison Float Switch - Horizontal Mount
Why does BRS recommend this?
Most float switch brackets can swing around or change level by just simply bumping them with your hand or arm. The Deluxe Madison Horizontal Mount Float Switch is just a typical float switch however the greatest part is that it has standard ½” NPT Male threads for mounting. This can screw directly into a ½” threaded bulkhead to give any sump that custom touch and keeping the wires completely out of water.
For water applications like level controllers, auto top systems, hydroponics, water features, humidification/dehumidification and air conditioning drain pans.
- Normally closed or normally open (see more)
- 24” leads (22 gauge wire)
- 1/2” NPT tapered fitting – does not include a nut
- Certifications: UL, CSA, NSF
- Gasket & Nut Sold Separately
Deluxe Madison Horizontal Mount Float Switch is great for:
- General water level control application
- Aquarium top-off applications
- Humidification/de-humidification applications
- Hydroponics projects
- Water features
- Air conditioning drain pan applications
Don’t use in heavy duty applications like sewage pumps.
Great for water. Check your fluid's specific gravity.
The wires complete a circuit when the float is down. You can reverse the operation by removing the clip, turning the float upside down and replacing the clip.
A pump rated at just 5 watts can destroy a float switch rated for 50 watts, locking it in the “on” position and pumping a lot of water where you do not want it.
The magnetic reeds enclosed in liquid level sensors are extremely reliable and long-lasting when utilized properly. Failures are nearly always a result of current overloading. Pumps, solenoids and many other devices that require control by a liquid level sensor carry "steady state" current ratings. These devices can draw ten times (or more) their steady state power ratings on start-up or shut-down. When the reeds inside our switches are exposed to this kind of "spiking voltage" they can overheat and become deformed. In some cases they may even weld together or break off, causing the switch circuit to remain closed (or open) regardless of the level of the float. Deformed reeds can also function intermittently, causing problems with troubleshooting. A 50 watt float switch can be destroyed by a pump rated at 6 watts and, unfortunately, it may take many cycles before the failure occurs.
Because they can destroy an otherwise very reliable float switch, care must be taken to completely isolate the switch from the current drawn by pumps, solenoids or other devices subject to spiking voltage. Resistors or diodes may be used, but the most common solution is to utilize a circuit board or a relay.
In the illustration, a relay acts as a switch for a pump, thereby isolating the float switch from any spikes that the pump may draw. The float switch turns the relay coil on and off. In this way, the only current handled by the float switch is that small amount required by the relay coil. Please consult with your relay supplier to assure that the relay current requirements are well within the specs of the float switch.
Leaks from cords By Josh on 2/3/2017Josh would recommend this product to a friendI love the size of this switch and it seems very responsive and durable. But mine immediately started leaking. I have it installed in a rather difficult place so I started trying to seal the leak myself. Lots of super glue, silicone, and rubber spray later and I am still getting a small leak out of the middle where the wires connect.
The float is awesome but if you are installing in a bulkhead that cannot leak just beware.
good switch, but watch the treading By Reefer Dave on 3/28/2016Reefer Dave would recommend this product to a friendThis switch works great for ATO and low/high water alarms. High quality construction and all sealed contacts. The only problem is the 1/2" male threading is not a tapered (pipe) thread and will not form a watertight connection with the bulkhead. The solution is to use some silicone on the threads as thread sealant. If it needs to be replaced I will just pop off the whole bulkhead and replace that way.
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