- Bulk Deionization Resin (Color Changing) - Bulk Reef Supply
Why does BRS recommend this?
We recommend color changing resin for the fact that it will physically change colors as it gets exhausted. That allows you to monitor the consumption of the DI resin and know when to change it out. If you have a TDS meter we still recommend color changing resin as it will let you know when to monitor your TDS meter for when TDS starts creeping through the DI resin. When it comes to packaging not just any packaging will do, we package our DI resin in vacuum sealed Mylar bags for ultimate effectiveness and shelf life.
DI Resin is necessary to reduce Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) to zero and is the last stage of an RO/DI unit. Resin is sold in economical bulk bags as well as single use pouches. The resin is designed to be used with one of our refillable DI cartridges. This refillable design saves a small fortune over proprietary sealed cartridges.
Color Changing Mixed Bed DI Resin
- Changes Color from Blue to Brown as the media is exhausted.
- 1.5 Gallon - Fills 6 standard 10" refillable cartridges
- 1.25 lbs. - Fills 1 standard 10" refillable cartridge
- Vacuum packed in foil-lined 4mm Mylar bags to preserve quality (see Full Details for more info)
- 2 year shelf life (unopened)
BulkReefSupply.com takes pride in the proper packing of our DI Resin. DI resin begins depleting when exposed to air. To avoid this, we package all of our DI resin in foil-lined 4mm Mylar bags AND vacuum seal it so no air is left in the package to deplete the resin while its waiting to be used. Our resin can remain packaged this way for 2 years without losing its capacity. Our bulk DI bags are perfect for reefers who process a lot of water or otherwise go through resin quickly. The bags are resealable via a featured zipper lock. Keep in mind this won't be as good as the original seal so we recommend them only for reefers who need a high volume of DI Resin. Otherwise, purchase the single refill packs for optimal freshness up to two years.
To get maximum life from your DI resin please takes the following steps
- Ensure optimal operation of your RO membrane. The higher your membranes rejection rate the fewer TDS your product water will contain resulting in longer lasting resin. The best way to keep the membrane rejection rate up is to monitor and change your prefilters appropriately as well as maintain at least 50psi going into the membrane.
- Ensure the resin is packed in the cartridge securely. The resin should be packed very tightly. When squeezed, there should be almost no flex to the cartridge.
- The initial couple minutes of water from your RO membrane will always be high, this is commonly referred to as TDS creep. Diverting the first few minutes of water down the drain can often greatly reduce DI resin consumption.
- Maintain low levels of carbon dioxide in your water supply. Excess carbon dioxide will deplete DI resin quickly. If you are depleting resin quickly and have already :addressed the two options above, excess carbon dioxide is the likely culprit. You have two choices:
- Collect the water coming from your RO system in a large container, add a powerhead or airstone and allow the CO2 to gas off. Then pump the water through your DI resin.
- Skip all that mess and just buy resin in bulk.
Don't throw the baby out with the bath water!!! By Ben on 1/29/2020Ben would recommend this product to a friendI've been using this product for over a year. The resin gets really brown on just the bottom 1/6 sixth of the cartridge after maybe 75 gallons or so. It usually reads higher than 1 or 2. I remove the brown stuff and leave mostly blue. I get 0 TDS. So don't just toss the baby out with the bath water. Remove the brown stuff and roll with the blue.
Easy to install By Jon on 10/8/2018Jon would recommend this product to a friendI love this resin. My TDS was at 20 until i installed this to my existing RO system and it went down to 0. Very easy to install as well.
Good stuff By Mike Honcho on 9/23/2018Mike Honcho would recommend this product to a friendWorks as advertised
Good product By EvilSS on 8/27/2018EvilSS would recommend this product to a friendPerfect for the job, no issues with it
Works for me By J P Coner on 8/21/2018J P Coner would recommend this product to a friendI like products that do "as advertised"...works great and easy to know when to change.
Better than less expensive options By Tracy on 8/12/2018Tracy would recommend this product to a friendI have use the BRS product and a less expensive Ebay product and the BRS lasts longer.
Best di resin By Wkles on 7/26/2018Wkles would recommend this product to a friendBest iv used love packaging vacuum sealed so you know its fresh.
Works as advertised By Chris on 7/21/2018Chris would recommend this product to a friendGreat stuff. The color change is a good backup indicator of when to replace it.
Great product By Chris on 7/20/2018Chris would recommend this product to a friendLove this stuff. Does just what its supposed to and packaged very well
Good product By Phil on 6/3/2018Phil would recommend this product to a friendVery good product it works as described
Efficient quick service -- product exactly what I ordered. By Eric on 6/2/2018Eric would recommend this product to a friendGood product; I am now using the fifth RO Drinking water system I have installed. Being in the military (now retired) I have had to install an RO system in each of our last four living quarters. When moving out each place asked us to leave the system in place for use except our last place with was in military quarters on Ft Gordon, GA. Almost bought the three resin deionization set this time; but realized each type of resin costs the same; so if my deionization filter is being corrupted, it doesn't matter whether it is one type or another; the combined filter would clear the substance anyway. Why use three, instead of just the one combined type? There is no cost savings; perhaps reduced landfill content, but no saving for me to do so. What is the advantage or putting it through all three types of resin?
Works Perfectly By Dick on 5/31/2018Dick would recommend this product to a friendThis is an excellent resin. Others try to get by with selling their resin in ziploc bags, but in spite of best efforts the resin dries out over time. The BRS resin is in a vacuum sealed pouch and it always super fresh and ready to do the job. Look no further.
Di resin straight out of a brand new bag already has 40-50% brown in it.. is it already exsausted??
No it is not. Half of the DI resin beads are always brown and half are blue. The brown always stay brown and the blue resin changes from blue to clear as it is exhausted giving the appearance that the entire cartridge has turned brown.
I noticed that your DI resin is vacuum sealed. If I purchase the larger bag that has 6 changes in it, once I open the bag, it will no longer be vacuum sealed. Will this affect the product in any way?
If you use the resin quickly it wouldn't have any sort of noticeable effect if you close the seal after each use but if you are purchasing and planning it for long term storage then you would be better off purchasing the individual bags.
I still have a fair amount of this resin left, but I would like to switch to your 3 canister system with the cation, anion, and then mixed bed in the last. Is this mixed bed the cation or anion mixed bed? I'm just wondering so I can use it up first before buying the new pro mixed bed resin. Thanks.
If your anion single bed runs out first, then you would want anion mixed bed resin since that would be more likely to break through, and if your cation single bed runs out first, then you would want to use the cation mixed bed resin.
BRS, I recently watched your video on DI resin - Great Video!!! I currently run a dual staged mixed DI bed. How can I tell if I would benefit from running a straight anion and/or cation prior to the mixed bed?
The main reason for running non-mixed bed resins is that in most cases you are wasting some portion of the cation or anion resin in a mixed bed when you change your cartridge. Since every water source is going to be different its hard to say which one that is in your case.
Running single bed resins allow you to change out the cartridge only when it is completely exhausted.
Running the 3 stage system we recommend is going to give you the best possible water and ensure you aren't wasting resin. That being said, if you would like to stick with a dual DI system mixed bed resin is still going to give you great results.
I hope this helps!
What are the 'beads' for the DI made of? Is this something that can be thrown away in the trash after it has been depleted? Are they plastic based - such as microbeads that will break down into smaller and smaller pieces?
While there are a few different resins available, most DI resins will be made of a porous polymer called polystyrene sulfonate. There is nothing toxic about the media itself and should be fine to dispose of in your regular trash. Have a great day!
One of my resin filters looks solid grey from the top down (the bottom inch or so looking normal). Although I changed the resin filter not long ago, I changed it out again today. Packed it with new resin from a new, unopened foil pack, and as soon as the water filled the canister it turned that grey color again. I have to assume it must be air bubbles, but but it's so solid looking. there must be an air bubble enclosing each granule of resin to produce this effect. Honestly it looks like concrete. Any idea? I've never had this happen before.
Hope this helps!
How long will the DI resin last in a non opened vacuum sealed bag?
Di resin can last in vacuumed sealed bag around 6 months. Feel free to let us know if you have any further questions!
What ratio of cation/anion resins is used in the mixed bed?
The ratio of our mixed bed DI resin is 50/50. Have a great day!
Does this Di resin remove silicate?
Ok, I'm using a color change di resin now, not BRS, but same principle. I'm kinda new to ro/di making. The bottom of my cannister has a light brown color too it now that goes up about 2 inches. TDS is still at 0. Do you change it when just a little brown going up or wait till whole cannister has turned brown? Sorry to be so naive but like I said not been doing this long. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
You want to wait until the TDS starts to read above 0 as the TDS meter is the ultimate say, but generally speaking that is going to correspond with the DI resin turning almost entirely brown.
Does the color changing di turn noticeable brown? My di has brown in it however you really have to look close to see it.
The DI resin changes from a dark blue/black color to a light gold yellow color. You should easily be able to tell from across the room!
Recently purchased a number of small individual vacuum sealed pouches. Is it better to store them in a fridge or freezer for prolonged life, or will room temp be more sufficient?
The main enemy of DI resin is exposure to co2, which is why we use the Mylar foil lined bags and then vacuum seal them. Just store the bags in a room temperature place and you will be just fine :)
Will your RO/DI filters fit my Coralife II
They sure will. All of the above (and basically any RO/DI unit) uses standard 10" cartridge sizes.