Aquarium Live Rock Videos
The convenient Brightwell Aquatics Microbacter Dry Rock Bacteria Starter kit contains everything you need to get your tank started the RIGHT way.Read more »Finally an "over the counter" aiptasia solution that actually works and doesn't make it worse. Check out Frank's F-aiptasia and find out what exactly is so unique that makes it better than the rest.Read more »Create a natural-looking, living aquascape from day one using Real Reef rock but don't let these mistakes hold you up!Read more »Build an amazing looking and highly functional aquascape at home using Marco Rocks.Read more »Thomas gets hands-on and shows you how to build a one of a kind "rock tree" using the Caribsea Liferock Reef Tree Kit!Read more »Our hosts deliver some useful tips to help you be successful using Frank's F-Aiptasia to rid your tank of these pesky anemones.Read more »
Acid curing is the most aggressive method of curing rock. It is also the least safe among the accepted methods of how to cure live rock for a reef tank or saltwater aquarium. There are very few instances in which we consider acid curing a necessity over a bleach or natural live rock cure. We will answer three direct questions about curing the rock for your reef aquarium using muriatic acid. 1. What is an acid cure? 2. When is it appropriate to acid cure rock? 3. How to cure rock with acid correctly? Many people think acid will attack or dissolve organic material that is on the rock but in reality the acid cure process is very quick and effectively breaking down organic material in such a short time is not likely to happen to the degree that you need it too. What actually happens is the acid will immediately start dissolving the surface of the calcium carbonate based rock, essentially removing the top layer. So instead of dissolving or breaking down the organic material itself, the acid is removing the top layer of rock this organic material may be attached too. More importantly, it will also remove any elements that may be bound up in this top layer of rock such as phosphorus. To Cure or Not to Cure...with Acid Considering the safety risks of working with acid along with the hassle involved in clean-up, it is almost never the recommended solution with one specific exception. There is certainly no need to acid cure wet live rock that is full of beautiful coralline algae, there is no need to do it with clean mined rock like Marco Rocks Reef Saver and no reason to do it with man-made rocks like Real Reef and Caribsea Life Rock. In these instances, if a cure is required a natural cure or curing with bleach is a far better option. Even with ocean based dry rock where there is a lot of dead organic material to be removed, a bleach cure is more economical, effective and arguably safer. In fact, when BRStv investigated the three methods of curing rock to see which method is most effective in terms of removing organics, the bleach cure out-performed an acid cure. If it is so risky, why do it? The only instance we recommend the use of acid for curing is with rock that came
There are three main methods for curing live rock for a saltwater reef tank: natural, bleach and acid. Our focus today is using bleach for curing dry rock and we answer three direct questions. 1. What is a bleach cure? 2. When is it appropriate to bleach cure rock? 3. How to do it? Bleaching dry rock or a “bleach cure” involves soaking the rock in a diluted solution of water and bleach. The bleach will oxidize and rapidly break down organic material on the surface of the rock. In many cases, you can get a complete bleach cure done in about 7 days making a longer “natural cure” unnecessary. The primary advantage of a bleach cure is the speed but it is also going to kill basically anything living on the rock’s surface including algae spores and undesirable bacteria. This is very appealing to many reefers who prefer to start from ground zero because it reduces the risk of introducing harmful hitchhikers
In terms of how to cure live rock, there are three main methods used by hobbyists: natural, bleach and acid. Our focus today is using the natural method and we answer three direct questions: 1. What is a natural cure? 2. When is it appropriate to naturally cure rock? 3. How do I cure it correctly? Curing naturally is done pretty much exactly as it sounds by simply dropping and soaking live rock in a suitable container, typically without light, and waiting for the undesirable organic material to decay. Over time, dead algae and other organics on the rock will fall off and break down naturally, leaving behind rock that is free of organics and fairly clean. A natural cure is the easiest method of cleaning or curing live rock and when done right, it can also help speed-up the cycle time because you do not need to deal with large amounts of die-off and the resulting nutrient spikes when cycling your display tank. Knowing what type of live rock you have is important to determine if you need to cure the rock. Live rock that is available to modern hobbyists can be grouped into four different categories: wet live rock, dry rock from the ocean or a previous tank, mined dry rock, and artificial man-made dry rock. Wet Live Rock If you spent the money to buy wet live rock, which is getting increasingly rare and expensive, than you probably desire the natural bacteria, Coralline Algae, microfauna, sponges and other organisms that come living on the rock. If you decide to cure it, some of this life will die off especially without light and a food source. For this reason, most hobbyists will not cure wet live rock to get the most benefit out of wet, living rock that is full of beneficial bacteria, small organisms and algae. Can you cure wet rock with light and food source additions? You can, but at that point your more or less just running a reef tank in a bucket and not really removing potential pests and pollutants. Some reefers will buy wet live rock and cure it using heated and circulated water but no light. Many of those hitch hiking organisms and potential pollutants will not survive this process and it is arguably one of the most stable ways to start a reef tank with a diverse bacterial culture, no hidden organic pollutants and minimal pests. Our suggestion for most reefers who paid for wet live rock and want to retain the desirable characteristics like coralline algae coverage is just skip curing the rock and move on to cycling it in the tank. So long as there is not a ton of obvious die off that needs to be dealt with, this is the best approach and may just take a bit more time for a proper cycle. Organisms that don’t survive in the tank will break down and be removed via filtration or water changes. Utilitarian fish and clean-up crew animals will also help keep things clean during this in-tank cure/cycle process. The result will be most of the life you paid for on the rock stays alive but you run the risk of introducing pests and parasites. Dry Live Rock If you picked up dry live rock that originally came from the ocean or used rock from another tank that has been allowed to dry out, curing the rock is critical to your success. Rock from the ocean or rock previously used in a mature tank will have all kinds of dead organic material on it. If not removed via a cure, it will yellow the water, smell terrible and add considerable nitrate and phosphates, all of which will cause almost unmanageable problems when starting a new tank. So the answer is, if it was alive at some point and you can physically see evidence of things growing on it or living in it, you need to cure it before cycling your tank. Dry Mined Rock This is by far the most common rock used these days because it is cheap and readily available with our most popular option being the Marco Rocks Reef Saver. Mined rock is basically a million year old calcium carbonate reef rock that has all these cool holes and crevices created by low ph aquifers in the ground. This rock was at one time, the foundation of ancient reefs. In all our tests, we have never been able to detect leaching organics from dry mined rock via nitrate and phosphate testing. Do not bother with a prolonged natural cure time because it is probably a waste of your time. We do recommend, however, that you soak the rock for a week or so in freshwater to loosen up any debris and clean it. Man-Made Dry Rock Artificial man-made dry rock such as the very popular Real Reef brand that we used in the BRS160 is favored because it starts purple and will look like an established tank much quicker. With most artificial dry rocks, we recommend soaking in saltwater for a prolonged period of time (4-12 weeks) to remove anything leftover from the manufacturing process. In the case of the Real Reef Rock, while somewhat damp and not technically dry, it shares many of the common curing practices of clean organic-free types of artificial dry rock and are often grouped together. Real Reef clearly states
How do you know how much rock to put in you reef tank? Today Randy takes a poll around the BRS office and helps you decide how much rock per gallon you need for your aquarium. This #AskBRStv question came from our FB group you can get your question answered from BRS Crew and the entire community! JOIN AskBRStv On Facebook Each week we'll pull questions from Facebook, Instagram, Reef2Reef, YouTube and our own website Q&A pages and answer the most interesting ones in a quick #AskBRStv episode. Welcome to #AskBRStv where we take questions from you, the reefing community, across all of our social networks and forums and answer them right here on YouTube! From how your reef gear works to coral and fish care and everything in between, we're here to answer your questions and share collective hobby knowledge with the community at large. *Legal Stuff* The purpose and content of this video is to provide general information regarding the products and their applications as© 2021 Bulk Reef Supply. All Rights Reserved.