Custom Build your RO system and tune it to your specs.

Stage 1) Choose a sediment filter: These reduce sediment, rust and larger particulate mater. 5 micron is the most common choice. Only choose the 1 micron if you know you water supply has lots of extremely small sediment in it.  Be aware that the 1 micron will get clogged faster and require more frequent replacement or the pressure will drop and hurt the performance of your system.

Stage 2) Choose a sediment filter or carbon block: Choose another sediment filer if you have extremely bad sediment problems (rare). The most common choice for this is the 5 micron CTO/2 carbon block. The carbon block will remove chlorine and other VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) from your water supply. The 1 micron +1  carbon block can also be used here but it may get clogged quickly and cause a drop pressure. If you have chloramines in your water supply (not the same as chlorine) you can use the granulated catalytic carbon or the ChlorPlus cartridge. The catalytic carbon is dusty and must be flushed before use. The ChlorPlus is a carbon block and much easier to use. Around 10% of the nations water supply uses chloramines, you can call your city hall and ask if you would like to find out. If you are building a three stage system skip stage three and choose a membrane.

Stage 3) Choose an additional carbon stage or add a DI resin canister . The most common choice here is the 1 micron +1 carbon block. Now that the water is already adequately cleaned   you can use a 1 micron carbon block without risk of it clogging quickly. Another common arrangement is to use an additional 5 micron (CTO/2) carbon block. If you have chloramines you will want to use the chlorplus on this stage.  If you are building a 4 stage RO/DI choose Deionization resin for this stage. DI resin will remove everything that the membrane misses and produce absolutely pure water.

Stage 4) Choose a membrane. By far the most common choice is the Dow 75GPD because it offers the best performance and flow rate combination available at common water pressures. The Dow will produce 75 gallons per day at 50 PSI and maintains 98% rejection. The 100 GPD GE membrane will produce water faster but requires 60PSI and has only a 96% rejection rate. The lower rejection rate will produce lower quality water and consume your DI resin faster. The 150 GPD membrane operates at 98% rejection at 65 PSI and is a great option if you have higher than average water pressure or use a booster pump. The last option is the water saver option which utilizes two 75 GPD membranes and cuts the waste water in half by feeding the second membrane with the waste water of the first. This option also requires 65 PSI to operate and performs best when your homes water supply has below 300 TDS (total dissolved solids) 

Stage 5) Add a stand alone deionization canister.  A single canister is the most common choice and typically enough to produce absolutely pure water. Customers who choose the dual stage do it because they have a dirty water supply and consume resin quickly or because they are on well water and live next to a known source of pollution like factories or farms.

Choose your accessories

• Dual TDS Meter – Measures water purity and insures that the unit is functioning properly. ***Most common accessory***
• Auto Shut off Valve – Required if you want to use a float valve to automatically shut your system down
• Float Valve – Install the float in your water container, when full the float will rise, shut off the water supply and turn your system off
• Ball Valve – Used to manually turn your system off
• Pressure Gauge – Used to monitor the pressure going into your membrane. Pressure will drop as filters get clogged which will help you know when to change them. Also an excellent tool for troubleshooting.
• Flush Kit – Used to flush deposits off the surface of the membrane and extend its life.
• Dual TDS Meter – Measures water purity and insures that the unit is functioning properly.

Choose Water Connection options 

• Drain Clamp – Used to permanently attach your waste water line to a sink drain pipe.
• Laundry Tub and Garden Hose Adaptor  - Screws on to common laundry tub and garden hose connections to supply water to your system
• Chrome Kitchen Sink Faucet Diverter – Screws on to common kitchen and sink faucets to supply water to your system.
• Self Piercing Valve – Used to permanently attach your system to a water supply pipe. Clamps on to the pipe and you screw in a small needle to make a hole in the pipe which feeds the system.
• Angle Stop adaptor Valve -  Used to make a permanent connection  to the water supply. Has 3/8” male threads on one side and 3/8” female threads on the other .
• Pressurized Faucet Kit - Used if you would like to add a faucet and a pressurized tank to your system. Included pieces to bypass the DI.