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- Standard Float Switch with Splash Guard
$119.99 As low as: $114.99
Starting at: $24.99
agree with other guy By Sub on 8/12/13Sub would recommend this product to a friendIts a solid float but it doesnt come with a nut and its a pita to find it. strange size. I used some silicone tubing to secure it for now, with a zip tie around it. Seems solid but would prefer a nut
Missing crucial part By Lakeviewink on 6/25/13Lakeviewink wouldn't recommend this product to a friendI have nothing against the float switch. I have used an identical one on my other tank with no problem. The problem is that I can't use this switch until I find the specialty nylon nut that was not included. I don't understand because my previous switch came with a nut for mounting to a bracket. The threads are not standard and who knows the actual size? I guess I will not be using the switch until I find out.
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Standard Float Switch with Splash Guard is great for:
- General water level control applications
- Aquarium top-off applications
- Humidification/de-humidification applications
- Hydroponics project
- Water features
- Air conditioning drain pan applications
Don’t use in heavy duty applications like sewage pumps.
Great for water. Check your fluid's specific gravity.
The wires complete a circuit when the float is down. You can reverse the operation by removing the clip, turning the float upside down and replacing the clip.
A pump rated at just 5 watts can destroy a float switch rated for 50 watts, locking it in the “on” position and pumping a lot of water where you do not want it.
The magnetic reeds enclosed in liquid level sensors are extremely reliable and long-lasting when utilized properly. Failures are nearly always a result of current overloading. Pumps, solenoids and many other devices that require control by a liquid level sensor carry "steady state" current ratings. These devices can draw ten times (or more) their steady state power ratings on start-up or shut-down. When the reeds inside our switches are exposed to this kind of "spiking voltage" they can overheat and become deformed. In some cases they may even weld together or break off, causing the switch circuit to remain closed (or open) regardless of the level of the float. Deformed reeds can also function intermittently, causing problems with troubleshooting. A 50 watt float switch can be destroyed by a pump rated at 6 watts and, unfortunately, it may take many cycles before the failure occurs.
Because they can destroy an otherwise very reliable float switch, care must be taken to completely isolate the switch from the current drawn by pumps, solenoids or other devices subject to spiking voltage. Resistors or diodes may be used, but the most common solution is to utilize a circuit board or a relay.
In the illustration, a relay acts as a switch for a pump, thereby isolating the float switch from any spikes that the pump may draw. The float switch turns the relay coil on and off. In this way, the only current handled by the float switch is that small amount required by the relay coil. Please consult with your relay supplier to assure that the relay current requirements are well within the specs of the float switch.
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